Thom Browne Resort 2024 can best be described as sleepy-schoolgirl-chic. In a series of photographs, he shows off a collection of stern models wearing the world's fanciest school uniforms who are just begging to go back to bed and count the sheep floating above her head.
However you want to label it, when it comes to suiting, Thom Browne consistently puts on a masterclass of maximalism highlighted by an attention to detail. With Browne headed to Paris in July and planning a huge production, one might expect this pre-season show to take on a humbler approach, but that is not the case. While it is not shown on the same large scale, the resort 2024 collection is still an elaborate display of exciting tailoring.
Browne describes the collection as an update from his previous fall collection saying, “As you remember from the last collection — all the tweeds, there was so much color. Before this collection, I did want a little bit of a refresh in regards to coloring out the selections that were going to be in the stores; then there is an infusion of some color.” The lineup showcases a range of colors, starting with grays and transitioning into soft pastels, and collegiate hues.
Adding to the wide range of colors he played with, is also a wide range of materials and fabric manipulations. Pieces are covered with tonal sequins, intricate embroideries, and surprising silver metallic hues. He also experiments with wool, cashmere, and several types of tweed fusions.
Beyond that, Browne displays his penchant for layering and detail heavily with the series of outfits. With features like pronounced shoulders, unusually short sleeves, and even an inside-out construction that exposes shoulder caps, seam bindings, and a canvas lining, Browne shows off beautiful construction.
Browne's famous Hector bags, which are modeled after his miniature wirehaired dachshund, also made their way into this show. Due to the tremendous success the Hector bags have had for several years, Browne chose to expand to sheep shaped handbags as well. These sheep inspired pieces became the highlight accessory of the show and became a major part of the show's theme. As for other accessories, the collection included bonnets, hats, peter pan collars, and bows which played with the sheep to create a Little Bo Peep aesthetic.
Overall, Thom Browne Resort ‘24 can be praised for being cohesive and detailed while having a sense of wackiness. Browne continues to show off expertise in pattern mixing, layering, and proportions. It is a refreshing addition to the established identity of the brand and is a perfectly playful ready-to-wear collection.