THE OBSESSIONS: SIMONE ROCHA AW23

Source: Vogue Runway

I was once told that "hay is for horses," but after seeing Simone Rocha's Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, I think that perhaps hay could be for fashion, too. The recurring motif of straw-stuffed dresses crinkling down the runway arose an indisputable intrigue right away.

The utilization of hay as a tool to enhance and add volume to sheer fabric was a stroke of genius. Throughout the show, the straw was used not only to puff up dresses— but as an accessory, and ultimately an entire dress. The theme seemed to gradually build as the show progressed, with two immaculately constructed straw dresses towards the end of the show. The five final looks all featured this straw concept which provided a perfect frame for the collection.

Source: Vogue Runway

Ballet shoes, ribbons, and bows are nothing new for Simone Rocha. However, this season, Rocha introduced a split-toe ballet flat, as well as a split-toe ballet platform. These are destined to be a covetable shoe, and are arguably the most memorable part of the entire collection. From bow placement to baby pink patent leather, every single element of these shoes is delicate and memorable.

The makeup shown on the models was simple but stunning, and added to the show in a way that was true to Rocha's brand. There was a simple fresh face on every model. Some of these models graced the runway with long ribbons tied into bows underneath their eyes. This subtlety ties in with many of Simone Rocha's recurring motifs and styles from both this collection and past collections.

Each and every detail involved in this collection was meticulous and delicate. Soft and poised even in the times where the colors incited a feeling of darkness, Rocha's craftmanship continues to impress her audiences. In a collection full of precious dresses, garments with androgynous whimsy, and straw-themed masterpieces; I sure am glad that there was no big-bad-wolf to blow this collection down.

Source: Vogue Runway

Source: Vogue Runway