THE OBSESSIONS: NINA RICCI F/W 2023 RTW
For anyone who has ever been told that they are "too much," Nina Ricci's newest collection is here to prove that too much is sometimes just right. Just last year, the world was let in on the news that Harris Reed was appointed the newest Creative Director of the French fashion house. Under the leadership of its new director, the fate of Nina Ricci was up in the air. Would the brand be brought a new life or would it stay the same regardless?
In the weeks prior to the Paris debut, Reed showed his own F/W 2023 RTW collection at London Fashion Week, leaving people wondering what he could possibly be cooking up for Nina Ricci. Ahead of the show, Florence Pugh wore a never-before-seen gown from the collection at the BAFTAs, and Harry Styles attended the BRITs in a Nina Ricci suit designed by Reed. Despite these sneak peaks at the designs, the actual F/W 2023 collection was even more grand than anticipated.
Source: Vogue Runway
Supermodel Precious Lee opened the show in a dark, tulle babydoll dress with mesh detailing along her arms and legs. The fullness of the skirt joined with glittering polka dots create a look that is as playful as it is regal. Though it is beautiful, it is tame in comparison to what was expected from Reed. However, it is just the beginning, and the rest of the show made up for that a million times over.
Source: Vogue Runway
In a stark contrast to the nearly all-black opening ensemble, the next pieces appeared like a beacon of loud, vibrant light. Highlighter hues overtook the runway, shattering any belief that this show would be like the others. Gone are the days of sleek, little black dresses as the pinnacle of glamor and style. Models were instead adorned in feathers, faux furs, bows, and towering platform heels in shades of pink, orange, and blue. The ostentatious display could not be pulled off by just anybody, but Reed does it spectacularly.
These designs embody costume glamor in a way that still feels chic. When a dress is covered in bright pink feathers, it is easy for the elegance to be lost, but Reed manages to capture grace and exuberance all at the same time. They simultaneously belong on the runway and in the closets of young children playing dress-up.
Source: Vogue Runway
There is a versatility in this show that proves how dynamic this new era of Nina Ricci is. The pieces that lack vibrant colors and feathers make up for the absence with large headpieces, optical-illusion stripes, and polka dots galore. It is every maximalist’s dream, and it is clear that they are not shying away from bold choices. Contrasting stripes and extreme silhouettes seem to break every rule that you are taught about fashion, but this show proves that playing by your own rules can yield some of the most splendid results.
Source: Vogue Runway
The show closed on an exaggerated mermaid style skirt paired with the purple top. The top was embellished with a 3D image of two birds seemingly embracing. Not only is this image a nod to the femininity that was intertwined with every aspect of this collection, but it also signifies the love that Reed surrounds himself and his work with. As much as some fashion snobs sometimes love to scoff at a boisterous display, it is a stage like this one that welcomes all, and it is that loving nature that makes Harris Reed’s designs for Nina Ricci all the more beautiful.
In the show notes, Reed told his audience, “I wanted to nod to the maison’s extraordinary history and at the same time, reinterpret those feminine codes for a modern consumer in a poetic, humorous, and fluid way. I like to dress individuals who want to have fun in clothes that have meaning and purpose.” This fun-loving spirit and Reed's attempt to make fashion inclusive and exciting shines through in every single detail of the show. Not only did he bring new life to the already existing glamor of the brand, but he brought a more fluid and playful nature to the runway. This new age of Nina Ricci will surely be a memorable one.