SCHIAPARELLI SHOWS FIRST RTW COLLECTION AT PARIS FASHION WEEK
It finally happened at Paris Fashion Week: Schiaparelli launched their first-ever ready to wear collection, deviating from their extravagant haute couture shows. Under the Creative Direction of American designer Daniel Roseberry, the couture house presented a stunning showcase of elegant looks for the modern woman without losing the essence of the brand.
After the Italian brand's revival in 2014, putting them back on the map in haute couture, Roseberry's vision for the brand produced a long-awaited shift into a more commercialized direction. This Fall/Winter 2023 collection breathed new life into everyday wardrobe staples while still maintaining a feeling of timelessness amidst a fast-paced trend cycle.
Source: Vogue Runway
The brand's vision for continued longevity was laid out on the Schiaparelli website, detailing their quest to build an entire day-to-day wardrobe for their clientele based on the core tenets birthed by its founder. You'll never see a logo-branded bag from Schiaparelli, because their brand wasn't built on giving into the logomania trend.
And yet, a Schiaparelli piece is recognizable from a mile away. The keyhole, measuring tape, and anatomical motifs that serve as the design house's identifiers were clearly portrayed; but were not made to be the central focus of the collection.
In the show notes, Roseberry himself said, "One of the challenges of making clothes now, in an age of rampant branding, is honoring Elsa’s codes while, at the same time, not reducing them to logos. Like Elsa, our focus is on clothes: wardrobe staples that help a woman feel more like herself."
Source: Vogue Runway
Schiaparelli's first-ever puffer jackets fit right at home alongside expertly tied turbans, sharply tailored suits, and the brand's signature funky gold hardware. Seasonal neutral tones such as this puffer's rich nude were offset by the rich black hues present in this cashmere sweater and sculptural leather boots.
Structure was conveyed through the usage of what Roseberry calls "masculine fabrics," presenting a high-fashion take on a utilitarian denim suit, complete with anatomical button detailing. From a technical standpoint, this collection was a masterclass on architectural draping. Even the more flowy skirts and dresses shown on the runway felt like they could have been carved out of stone; and we mean that in the best way possible.
Source: Vogue Runway
The designer said that he wanted to create a 360 wardrobe in their first ready to wear collection, and it's safe to say that he succeeded. Sensibility fused with whimsical artistry as Roseberry revamped essential closet pieces ranging from a simple button-up shirt to officewear that's sure to spark many a water cooler conversations.
The couture house might be known for their evening wear, but their daywear offerings in this collection blew us away. We've seen the little black dress reimagined more times than we can count, but what sets Roseberry's offerings apart is his incorporation of the iconic face bag's hardware onto a velvet cocktail dress, complete with matching gloves.
Source: Vogue Runway
As for accessories, molded toes were stomping down the runway once again, branching out from the signature gold into brushed cream boots. Schiaparelli's artistry in jewelry channeled new inspiration from gilded lilies and golden oyster shells, shown off in theatrical statement necklaces.
Even in a ready to wear collection, the avant-garde origins of Elsa Schiaparelli weren't misplaced. Jewelry, footwear, and handbags retained their usual dramatic flair and beautifully contrasted the more subdued clothing displayed.
Source: Vogue Runway
If Roseberry's first ready to wear collection for Schiaparelli taught us anything, it's the fact that the luxury design house is here to stay. Their foray into a more commercialized wardrobe without succumbing to the logomania trap, maintained the integrity of the brand and its key defining elements. This timeless collection offers a bright beacon of hope for the future of the brand following its 2014 revamp, and we can't wait to see what Roseberry comes up with next.
Source: Vogue Runway