Traditionally known for its sun-soaked runways and breezy catwalks, Copenhagen Fashion Week's summer edition took an unexpected turn last week. Sideway winds engaged in a tug-of-war with the umbrella-clad front row, dispelling the usual balmy atmosphere. However, the event's spirit remained undeterred as the busiest show schedule in the city's history pressed forward, undaunted by the meteorological challenges.
While raindrops fell, the runway illuminated the season's styles. Despite seeking shelter beneath gabardine macs, the summer Collections from cherished brands like The Garment, OpéraSPORT, Stamm, and Ganni provided a tantalizing glimpse into what we'd be adorning under sunnier skies. The fashion show truly embodied the notion of persevering against all odds. Here, in an ongoing round-up, we report on the best six of Copenhagen Fashion Week S/S 2024.
Guests were invited to immerse themselves in the intriguing realm of Ganni's AI universe, an endeavor masterminded by Creative Director Ditte Reffstrup after a period of contemplation. The concept sprouted when Nicolaj Reffstrup, her husband and Ganni's Co-Founder, sparked an experiment by asking AI to conceive a Ganni Collection. To Ditte's initial trepidation, the investigation yielded surprisingly positive results. She recalls the mixed emotions it stirred, confessing, "It frightened me, and I was genuinely upset with him due to the inherent scariness. However, upon bringing it to the office, we realized that our aversion to anything different is a natural human response, driven by our survival instincts."
Although the AI-generated Collection wasn't ultimately used, the journey led to the collaboration with ARTificial Mind Founder Cecilie Waagner Falkenstrøm, an expert in humanizing tech art. Falkenstrøm was instrumental in crafting a bespoke set and soundtrack that embraced the fusion of art and technology. The runway witnessed a distinct flavor of innovation, spotlighting leather-look dresses born from Oleatex, a fabric ingeniously crafted from byproducts of olive oil production. The all-over sequins entered through Algreen, a transformative process that turns seaweed into plastic-free paillettes.
Amidst the creative whirlwind, Ganni's renowned collaborations flourished, including the much-anticipated Ganni x New Balance round two. Notably, the runway offered a tantalizing glimpse into an upcoming inclusive capsule collaboration with the captivating model Paloma Elsesser.
Source: Vogue Runway
Navigating the path of curating essential wardrobe pieces while maintaining a sense of novelty in seasonal collections is no easy feat. However, in a remarkable evolution from their winter showcase in January, The Garment's Designers, Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen, have orchestrated a triumph. Underneath the graceful sweep of long duster coats and the timeless allure of well-loved leather jackets lies a Collection that seamlessly transitions across the seasons. The Collection boasts wispy cotton separates that cast an irresistible spell over summer wardrobes.
Napkin-style camisoles, delicately cinched at the shoulder, open-knits that exudes an airy charm, and billowing cotton shirt dresses all emerge as the embodiment of effortless staples that transcend fleeting trends. Their allure transforms warm weather into a refreshing affair. In an intimate moment backstage, Eskildsen unveiled a novel facet of their journey: exploring a richer color palette. This exploration led to an innovative printing technique that melds organic cotton with pineapple seeds. The outcome of this innovative fusion graces the collection with the radiant yellow stripes adorning PJ-style cords. If not this, then what can truly encapsulate the essence of freshness?
Source: Vogue Runway
A seamless transition of creative direction marked a pivotal moment at Remain last week, with Martin Asbjørn announced as the brand's new Creative Director. In a symbolic gesture, Asbjørn bowed at the show's culmination, providing a glimpse into his collaborative work alongside CEO Denise Christensen for this Collection. This intro sets the stage for his creative journey, set to debut next January. The current Collection is a tantalizing preview, capturing the brand's enduring essence of blending sophistication with allure.
The runway spectacle unfurled a series of ensembles that continue to straddle the fine line between elegance and allure. Sheer silk blouses elegantly paired with pencil skirts, pinstripe tailoring adorned with a gossamer sequin veil, and cropped blazers paired with burnout sequin cigarette trousers all carve out a sensuous silhouette. Reflecting on the Collection, Christensen shared, "I perceive the Remain woman as one who desires an elevated form of allure. She is poised, discerning what aspects of herself she wishes to showcase and those she doesn't."
Asbjørn concurs, aligned with this vision of empowerment and poise. He manifests his intention not as a radical reinvention of the Remain woman but as an endeavor to satiate her distinct desires. Confident in his approach, he asserts, "In my heart, I was certain – I am the ideal fit for this role." With this charismatic conviction, he steps into his role as Creative Director. The curtain rises on a new chapter; the world is invited to stay tuned for the exciting narrative that awaits.
Source: Vogue Scandinavia
While Munthe's global acclaim has surged recently, the brand's pioneering journey into the realm of artist collaborations has deep roots, dating back to the 1990s when Creative Director Naja Munthe laid its cornerstone. Naja Munthe's visionary insights led to the inception of the brand's 'Art Monday' digital gallery, an ode to female artists that resonated powerfully in the S/S 2024 collection. This captivating showcase not only featured the artistry of Contemporary Creators Aline Gaiad and Heather Chontos but saw their masterpieces adorning trousers, dresses, and t-shirts and being artfully woven into intarsia knits.
The Collection's fabric was a canvas on which these artworks breathed life, evoking the chromatic strokes of an artist's palette. Textiles intertwined in contrast yet harmoniously engaged, producing a painter's innate approach. The resulting harmonious ensembles struck an effortless chord, mirroring the intuitive mastery inherent in an artist's hand. As the textures conversed, fashion and art converged, articulating a symphony of visual narratives that only Munthe could orchestrate.
Source: Vogue Scandinavia
Stephanie Gundelach and Awa Malina Stelter, the dynamic Creative Directors, have masterfully cultivated a dedicated fan base through their distinctive fusion of Y2K chic and sporty vibes. However, what truly stands out is their remarkable ability to infuse their Collections with a hype-driven aesthetic, all while staying unwaveringly committed to their zero-waste pledge.
In a display of unwavering eco-consciousness, every fabric utilized – whether silk, wool, or polyester – emerges from industrial waste, ensuring no new materials are generated. Their devotion extends to cotton, sourced from recycling or certified by GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), a commitment they've held since the brand's inception. This season, their ensembles exuded their signature style, elevated with an artistic flourish. The Collection showcased sculpted jersey dresses adorned with brushstroke prints, versatile jeans, statement-making going-out tops, and skirts layered over trousers, complemented by buttoned-up polo knits. Notably, the lineup included a cozy array of padded jackets that offered the ideal athletic touch, particularly fitting for the occasion given the torrential downpour that enveloped the show.
For those eager to acquire these coveted styles, pre-ordering is essential. The brand's modus operandi centers around crafting each piece upon demand, eschewing the conventional approach of fulfilling minimum orders to minimize excessive production – a tangible manifestation of their commitment to walking the sustainability talk. Through their designs, Gundelach and Stelter are not only shaping Y2K aesthetics but also redefining ethical fashion with an unwavering stride.
Elisabet Stamm delves into her treasure trove of childhood film photographs for a captivating voyage into her S/S 2024 show. These cherished snapshots of animals adorn jackets, anoraks, and tracksuits, transformed into a Collection that seamlessly bridges Stamm's past with a profoundly appealing present. Despite labeling them as "bad pictures," these evocative images from her formative years resonate deeply, as she explains, "I wanted to share something that holds personal significance, a source of joy that I can connect with. These were those memories." She hopes these personal fragments can reverberate with a broader audience on an abstract level.
The essence of nostalgia permeates not only the motifs but also the fabrics themselves. An impressive 90 per cent of the collection materializes from deadstock textiles or previously utilized in her creations. Stamm's mastery of digital prints adds an innovative layer, enhancing the resonance of her pieces. She elaborates, "Digital prints introduce a new dimension to my work, enriching the narrative." Amplifying the experience, the collection's ambiance was elevated through an eclectic soundtrack curated by her friend, the French producer Princ€, alongside a riveting live performance by Scandinavian-Syrian rapper Silvana Imam.
The defining characteristic of Stamm's creative process is its organic nature – a skilled spontaneity that beautifully unfurls. Stamm says, "I never adhere to recipes, not even in my cooking. Designing is an extension of my heart, and my emotions and discoveries guide the journey." Stamm's S/S 2024 Collection becomes a testament to the power of personal connections, reimagined through art and design.
As the final curtain falls on Copenhagen Fashion Week S/S 2024, the city's fashion landscape emerges utterly transformed. In the face of challenging weather and unforeseen twists, these six brands have illuminated the path as beacons of innovation, artistry, and sustainability. Their Collections stand as profound testaments to the enduring spirit of creativity, redefining the allure of fashion in ways that transcend boundaries and inspire us all.