Moschino unveiled their Resort '24 menswear collection, staying true to their identity even while in between Creative Directors. Moschino showed off a generally safe, and extremely wearable collection that is neither a disaster nor a resounding success. Keeping true to their campy humor, the brand played with schoolboy uniforms, floral patterns, and oversized tailoring, showing us something accessible, albeit a little uninspired.
While still looking for a permanent Creative Director after Jeremy Scott’s departure in March of this year, Moschino had an easy target on its back before the release of the Resort ’24 collection. Making a calculated decision, Moschino decided to not stray away from the established identity and continue their signature brand of opposition of irony.
On one spectrum of the collection is a floral print, repurposed into sash-tied tops, skintight pants, masculine corsets, detached collars and more. These patterns stick through layered tailoring, are broken up through mesh tops, and peak around bags and tanks tops. Other times flowers are used as ornaments on outfits distant from the original floral looks, appearing on belts, collars, and chains.
In another part of the collection is an ensemble that looks like it took inspiration from boy scouts. Khaki colored explorer uniform pieces and knitwear are splattered with embroideries resembling paint. Here we are reminded of a scout who likely has a lot of cleaning to do after he just got earned his painting merit badge.
Finally, the collection brings us back to 90s school picture days, dressing the models in their finest schoolboy garb. Graphic tees over button downs and under blazers, baggy shorts, and high socks with loafers all feel akin to the school uniform. The collection rounds out some of these looks with beautiful leather jackets, lots of bags, and way too many high white boots.
Of course, reactions to the collection were mixed, fans on fashion blogs said things like, “This is the most boring Moschino collection in years. Too many filler clothes, not enough fashion”. Others accepted this transitional period for the brand saying, “I'm not mad at it. Looking forward to what direction the house will go under whomever is named its new Creative Director.”
Overall, the collection felt fine, showing us Moschino can likely continue without Jeremy Scott, although to fully move on they will need to put out more inspired collections. For the first step forward, this collection did what it needed to and showed us the brand can stay true to the identity we all know it for.